Location
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Quick Facts
Capital	Ashgabat
Government	Dictatorship
Currency	Turkmen manat (TMM)
Area	total: 488,100 km2 water: 0 km2 land: 488,100 km2
Population	4,688,963 (July 2002 est.)
Language	Turkmen 72%, Russian 12%, Uzbek 9%, other 7%
Religion	Muslim 89%, Eastern Orthodox 9%, unknown 2%
Calling Code	963
Internet TLD	.tm

Turkmenistan is a country in Central Asia with a population of about 5 million, and an area around half a million square km, a bit larger than California or almost the size of Spain.

It has a coast on the Caspian Sea, but is otherwise landlocked. Neighboring countries are Iran and Afghanistan to the South, and Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan to the North.

Overall it is a relatively poor desert country, although billions have been spent on the capital Ashgabat in post Soviet times. The traditional life of the Turkmen is that of nomadic shepherds, though some have been settled in towns for centuries. The country has extensive oil and gas reserves undergoing exploration and development.

Regions

Map of Turkmenistan

The great Garagum (Kara-Kum) desert, occupies over 80% of the country in the West and center.

The Eastern part is a less desolate plateau.

The country shares a mountainous, or at least hilly, border with Iran.

Cities

• Ashgabat, the capital
• Balkanabat (formerly Nebit-Dag)
• DaÅŸoguz (formerly Tashauz)
• Merv
• Türkmenabat
• Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) - a Caspian port

Historically, most of these towns were oases along the Silk Road.

Other destinations

• Darvaza Flaming Crater —At this spot near the town of Darvaza, an oil rig accidentally struck a large pocket of natural gas in 1971. The rig collapsed into the cavern, resulting in a large crater filled with fire. It was decided to let the fire burn rather than let the poisonous gas escape into the nearby town. The fire burns to this day and it is popular as being easily mistakable for the gates of Hell.

Understand

North Korea may get all the press, but even Kim Jong-Il's cult of personality fades when compared to the surreal totalitarian state set up by Turkmenistan's all-powerful President for Life Saparmurat Niyazov. He adopted the title Turkmenbashi ("Father of All Turkmen"), named the city of Turkmenbashi (formerly Krasnovodsk) after himself, and built a 15-meter tall golden statue that rotates to face the sun in the capital Ashgabat. The month of January is now known as Turkmenbashi, while the month of April and the word "bread" are now officially Gurbansoltan Eje, the name of Niyazov's mother. Decrees emanating from Niyazov's palace have banned, among other things, lip synching, long hair, video games, and golden tooth caps. Through it all, Serdar Saparmurat Turkmenbashi the Great (his official title) remained modest: "I'm personally against seeing my pictures and statues in the streets - but it's what the people want", he said.

Niyazov's abrupt death in December 2006 means that the future of his personality cult, and indeed the nation, is now in doubt. There are fears of regional instability due to Turkmenbashi's death.

People

The people of Turkmenistan are predominantly Turkmen, also spelt Turkoman, in both ethnicity and language. Turkmenistan traditionally was home to sizable Russian and German populations, but they largely emigrated to their mother countries following the break up of the Soviet Union.

• Religions : Muslim 89%, Eastern Orthodox 9%, unknown 2%

Terrain

Turkmenistan is largely covered by desert, with intensive agriculture located in irrigated oases. One-half of its irrigated land is planted with cotton, making it the world's tenth largest producer.

Get in

You will need a visa to visit Turkmenistan, however it recently has been possible to get this upon arrival in Ashgabat. Make sure you check this information well beforehand, as the requirements vary for different nationalities. As of 5 December 2007, Australian travel advice for Turkmenistan indicates that visas-on-arrival are no longer available,[1] though it is not clear if this applies to all nationalities or only Australians.

This procedure can be greatly helped by travelling with a tour group, which is arguably the best (and most hassle-free) way to visit Turkmenistan.

According to available information, Turkmenistan has withdrawn from the Commonwealth of Independent States unified visa regime, so this potential visa-loophole is also closed now.

Bear in mind that you might well have to be met by a guide, regardless of how you enter Turkmenistan. This can be particularly important, especially if your inward journey is delayed as is possible when entering across the Caspian Sea by boat.

By plane

Turkmenistan Airlines has direct flights to Ashgabat from London and Birmingham, used predominantly by the British Sikh community as a transit point for further flight to India and Pakistan. Look out for the portrait of Sapamurat 'Turkmenbashi' Niyazov at the front of the cabin. Turkish Airlines flies to Ashgabat from Istanbul. Lufthansa also flies from Frankfurt to Ashgabat.

By train

There is a railway connection to Russia and Iran.

By car

By bus

By boat

There is an unreliable ferry between Baku (Azerbaijan) and Turkmenbashi about twice a week.

Get around

By plane

Internal flights are possible on Turkmenistan Airlines which flies daily between Ashgabat, Mary, Turkmenbashi, Dashoguz and a couple other destinations. Flights are subsidised, and due to fuel costs, extremely cheap. Prices are around $5 US for a flight from Ashgabat to Mary or Dashoguz. Turkmenistan Airlines operates with a new fleet of Boeing 737s, purchased in 2001. Be aware that you might not be able to photograph freely in and around the airport, though this is not unheard of elsewhere.

By boat

The Amu Darya is an important inland waterway for Turkmenistan.

By car

At least in Ashgabat, like in much of the former Soviet Union, "taxis" are mostly unofficial - and can be hailed by flagging down a car by the roadside. Haggle, and agree on the destination and price in advance - knowledge of Russian will definitely come in handy at this point.

The usual sensible precautions apply here. If your instincts suggest that something might be not quite right, then it's best to go with your instincts.

Roadblocks are in place throughout the country, so this method is really best used only within city limits unless you are specifically looking for trouble.

By train

It is possible to travel by train between some of the major cities in Turkmenistan, but journeys are slow (up to 16 hours from Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi) - so unless you have a specific interest, plane travel is the best way to get around the country.

Talk

About 72% of the people in Turkmenistan speak Turkmen. About 50% of the population speaks good Russian (according to Ethnologue).

See also:

• Turkmen phrasebook
• Russian phrasebook

Buy

Turkoman rugs are famous, tending to rich reds with geometric patterns. Sometimes they are called Bokhara rugs because Bukhara in neighbouring Uzbekistan was a center for their trade. Turkoman designs are now often copied in India and Pakistan.

A good current reference is Murray Eiland Carpets: A Complete Guide

The classic book on Turkoman rugs is "Tappiseries de l'Asie Centrale", in Russian and French by AA Bogolyubov, Tsarist governor of Turkmenistan, 1905. It was a limited edition with hand-painted illustrations, now rare and extremely expensive. A translation (the original French plus English), "Carpets of Central Asia", was published in Britain in the 60s. Even it is now hard to find and expensive. However, if you intend spending a lot on these carpets, it is definitely worth reading. Look for it in libraries.

Why not add to your own despotic library by adding Turkmenbashi's self-penned 'Ruhnama' book, exploring his views on what it means to be a Turkmen. Surprisingly, this is a fairly sensible read.

Eat

Expect distinctly average Russian cuisine in restaurants. As in Uzbekistan, 'plov' and more central Asian-type fare can be found in markets.

If you can find it, try sturgeon from the Caspian Sea, sometimes prepared in a 'tempura' style.

Drink

Look out for a range of 'Turkmenbashi' labeled vodka, which can be washed down with the range of Russian 'Baltika' brand beer. Tea is excellent and readily available.

Best to err on the side of caution, and stick with bottled water. As in Russia, you may want to specify byehz gah-zah (literally, 'without gas' or 'still; plain') if you do not like fizzy water. 'Borjomi' mineral water from Georgia is available in Ashgabat's shops.

Sleep

Work

It's difficult for foreigners to find work.

Stay safe

The recent death of Saparmurat Niyazov has created some uncertainty about the situation in the country. Visitors should exercise caution with regard to local politics — keeping aware of developments but avoiding any involvement.

Unlike visiting the DPRK (North Korea), it is possible to take photographs relatively freely in Turkmenistan. However, you are best advised to exercise caution when photographing anyone in uniform or government buildings. Play it safe early on in your visit to give yourself an idea of what is acceptable.

It should not be necessary for your guide to accompany you if you wish to leave your hotel, and go for a wander.

Stay healthy

Pay a visit to 'Kow Ata' underground sulfur lake, found in the mountains an hour or so outside Ashgabat. It is possible to swim in the year-round warm, mineral rich, and medicinal waters. Expect a walk down increasingly slippery steps, and a corrugated shack to change in - unless you're handy with your towel.

Respect

Do not under any circumstances criticize the president, the country or its people. Despite the smiling face of the president seen on the countless posters, the government runs a restrictive system, to the extent that every word of the president is obeyed. According to reports, he once expressed the opinion he liked a particular hairstyle in women - resulting in the adoption of said hairstyle by every woman and school girl the very next day.

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